Swear like a trooper, drink your red wine cold and always finish your dinner
Always be late — unless a bull’s charging at you.
Learning the language is only the first step to
becoming Spanish. Getting a tan and knowing your tapas from your pintxos are
steps two and three, but there’s still a long way to go before you can pass
yourself off as anything other than a “guiri”. There are some shortcuts,
though.
First, forget Anglo-Saxon notions of politeness,
discretion and decorum. Being Spanish involves walking into a bar, kissing and
hugging complete strangers, shouting “oiga” at the waiter and chucking anything
you can’t eat or drink on the floor. Except glasses. That’s too much. But you
can drop the please and thank yous. They’re so unnecessary.
If you’re a lady, carry a fan. Over here, it’s a tool,
not a souvenir, and regardless of gender, do try to develop the uncanny Spanish
skill of knowing instinctively where the coolness is. Not hipster coolness. The
ambient one.
You also need to unlock that potty mouth. Spoken — or,
rather, shouted — Spanish is shot through with obscenities of astonishing
inventiveness and anatomical awareness, and it doesn’t matter who you’re
talking to. In Salamanca, I heard a teacher on a school trip tell his pupils to
“**** off for lunch”, and that “any ****er” who wasn’t back at 3.30 sharp would
be “****ing left behind for social services”. The kids seemed cool with that,
even though being Spanish requires utter disdain for punctuality. Arriving
anywhere 30 minutes late is actually considered quite early and quite rude.
You need to learn food etiquette, too. Start with a
breakfast of ‘tostada’, ‘sobrasada’ and a ‘cortado’, and don’t ask for butter.
This is olive-oil country. Stop whatever you’re doing at 11am and nip out for a
beer and a sandwich. That should keep you going until lunchtime, at 2pm. You’ll
be going for a three-course ‘menu del dia’, and it will take between two and
three hours. Then have a kip.
Next, tapas. You can always spot the Brits. They’re
the ones who walk into a crowded tapas bar and can’t believe there’s a table
free. That’s because the Spanish sneer at tables. Tapas are eaten at the bar,
while yelling at the waiter and throwing stuff on the floor. Except the
glasses. Remember that.
Then go home and watch telly. Got Talent España and Sábado
Deluxe — a sort of Jeremy Kyle for celebrities — are good choices. They’re
probably on the TV in the bar, but with all that shouting, you won’t be able to
hear a thing.
Ten o’clock is dinnertime. Start with beer or ice-cold
red wine, because cocktails are for after dinner, and make sure you eat
everything you’ve ordered. Countries that have suffered famine are funny about
that. Don’t go overboard on tips (it’s not done here), be ambivalent about
bulls and, finally, always take your phone to the toilet. This is a) so you can
check for messages from your secret lover, and b) because every motion-activated
toilet light on the Iberian Peninsula is programmed to go out after four
seconds.
Chris Haslam January 21 2018, 12:01am, The Sunday Times
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